Goosecross: The Quiet Architecture of Napa’s Hillsides
Goosecross makes Napa Bordeaux the old way: from rock, restraint and a long, even season rather than sugar and new-oak gloss. The winery sits on State Lane, just east of Yountville and far in spirit from the bustle of Highway 29. From its deck the view runs west over rows of river stone to the Mayacamas Mountains.
Where the goose crossed the stream
Two couples, the Gorsuches and the Toppers, founded Goosecross in 1985; the name nods to Gorsuch, said to mean “where the goose crossed the stream.” Today Christi Coors Ficeli and her husband Dave own it, and winemaker Bill Nancarrow, formerly of Duckhorn, has shaped it into a focused estate of about 5,000 cases.
Rock, bench and mountain
The estate grows on an ancient riverbed of cobbles, gravel and sand. Like a hillside, it drains fast and keeps the vines lean, giving small berries and thick skins. Cool air from San Pablo Bay stretches the season, so tannins ripen without the fruit turning jammy. For true mountain fruit, Goosecross bottles a micro-lot Cabernet from the volcanic slopes of Atlas Peak.
The Bordeaux idea
Nancarrow works like a Left Bank château: each block and clone is picked and fermented apart, then assembled at the end. Vintages are allowed to speak; the cool 2011 Cabernet came in at just 13.3% alcohol. The Cabernet Franc leads with white pepper, sage and plum over fine, savoury tannin. The flagship ÆROS, made only in top years from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, layers blackberry, violets and licorice over firm structure and bright acidity.
Goosecross will never be the loudest name in Napa, and that is the point. Open a bottle, give it an hour, and the place comes up through the glass. Tastings are by appointment at goosecross.com/visit.
